DMZ

Spent today exploring the DMZ - demilitarized zone - about 100km north of Hue. The DMZ runs from east to west along the Ben Hai River and during the war was the battleground demarcation between north and south Vietnam (the 17th parallel). We chose to stick to the well-beaten paths as there are still several warnings about UXOs (unexploded ordinances) in this area. Approximately 7 million tons of bombs were dropped by the US over this part of Vietnam during the war - but only one third actually exploded. Each year, many local civilians still feel the effects.

The Rockpile can be seen from the main road. It looks like any other mountain, but between 1966 and 1968 it was a very important observation post and artillery base for the US army. At 240m, it could only be reached by helicopter.

Next stop was the Khe Sanh Combat Base (less than 20km from the Laos border) - site of the battle of Khe Sanh which took place between 21 January and 9 July 1968. Approximately 500 American and 10,000 North Vietnamese troops died here. You will see from the photos that the airfield is very sparse - to this day, nothing will grow in the soil.

From Khe Sanh we travelled to the Hien Luong Bridge which spans the Ben Hai River. We walked across the bridge, a luxury not afforded to locals during the war. Photos at a nearby museum show the surrounding land resembling the moon's crater-ridden surface at the height of the battles - such was the severity of bombing 40 years ago.

Finished our day with a visit to Vinh Moc tunnels - a subterranean village which local people created to escape the US bombs. The village consists of 2km of hand-dug rabbit warren tunnels (23m deep at the deepest points) containing bedrooms, meeting rooms and even a maternity ward. Those born in the tunnels are around 43 - 45 years old today...

Back for a final night in Hue before heading to Hoi An tomorrow. Feeling very satisfied - another bucket list item officially ticked today...